WHAT IS A “LUNATIC” TRUCK?
It isn’t a secret that we don’t do anything like anyone else does. We have a proven system that works in any market condition.
Here is all you need to know if you want to buy a “lunatic” truck.
Remember, if this if your first truck, you are not buying a truck for comfort, style, or convenience. You are buying a truck to MAKE A PROFIT.
It needs to be a 1999-2007 FREIGHTLINER Century or Columbia with a CONDO sleeper (for vans). No midroofs. No Volvos. No Peterbilts. No Kenworths.
Why? That is the all-important question. It isn’t because Freightliners are “better” in any way that matter to drivers. They are NOT comfortable. They don’t ride good. They are NOT quiet. They are NOT stylish.
They are “better” for business owners. They have a low cost of operation. Parts are cheap and easy to find. They are easy to work on. They get good fuel mileage (your number one cost).
It needs to have a DETROIT DIESEL engine. It doesn’t matter if it has the Series 60 12.7 liter or 14 liter, as long as it is a DETROIT. Again, low cost of operation and good fuel mileage.
It needs to have to correct “specs.” It must be geared for FUEL MILEAGE. There are a couple of different combinations to look for:
The best combination is a HIGH rear end gear ratio and a “direct drive” transmission. An example would be a 2.73 gear with a ten speed direct drive, or a 13 speed “double over(drive)” so that 11th gear is direct drive. This will allow the engine to run in that “sweet spot” of 1,350 RPM and have less drag in the driveline.
The next best (and most common) combination would be a 3.42 or 3.58 rear gear with a 10 or 13 speed overdrive transmission. Avoid 3.73 (and lower, like 3.90) gears as the ratio is too low and the engine would have to run too many RPM at highway speed to get good fuel mileage.
Okay, now you have the bare bones. You must discard any truck that does not meet these first three criteria. Now it’s time to find a reason NOT to buy this truck.
How Do You Prepare a “Lunatic” Truck?
Get the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) and do RigDig report. You can do one report for $34.99 or three reports for $49.99. RigDig will give you a history of the truck - any reportable accidents, who it was leased to and when, what states it was registered in, and the list of reported DOT violations. This report is just to find a reason to NOT buy it.
Find a seasoned, qualified and COMPETENT mechanic. You’re looking for signs of a cracked frame or anything that CAN’T be fixed. They need to be able to notice oil leaks, oil in coolant, coolant in oil, driveline problems (carrier bearing, U joints, slip yoke, etc.), suspension wear, general condition of the wiring under the truck. Does the ABS work? Does it have excessive blow by? A good mechanic can save you a lot of money by making sure you get the most for your money.
Make a comprehensive list of all the parts you need to refurbish the truck to get it to - Pass a Landstar Pre-Lease inspection, be DOT legal, and roadworthy and trouble-free. The following is a list of things that you should consider replacing before you haul a load;
All six shock absorbers (Use NEW bolts, washers, and nuts)
All four drive air bags
Cab shocks
Cab air bags
Drive axle spring bushings
Test the charge air cooler for leaks. Replace if necessary.
Steer axle leaf springs and bushings
Inspect and replace steering components if necessary - tie rod assembly, Ackerman arms, steering shaft, drag link, steering box, pitman arm
Dump ALL Fluids - Transmission, Rear Ends, Engine Oil, Coolant (Use RED Extended Life 50/50) and replace with new
Replace anything and everything under the hood that is made of rubber - Hoses, belts, coolant shunt lines, EGR hoses, charge air hoses
With the charge air hoses off, inspect the turbo for signs of wear
Service the air dryer
Check over the Air Conditioner - Condenser, Evaporators (one in front and in the bunk), lines, drier, expansion valves, wiring
Check the heater cores (one in front and in the bunk) for signs of leaks/clogs
Go over every inch of wiring under the hood and along the frame to make sure it is properly secured in loom and not rubbing on metal anywhere.
Check all air hoses and lines that they are properly secured and not rubbing.
Inspect the braking system. Slack adjusters, S-cams, brake shoes, drums, brake hardware, ABS sensors and wiring. A full brake job isn’t a bad idea to make sure that the rollers and hardware aren’t seized as most people don’t change them when they replace the shoes.
Fully inspect the exhaust system and replace any flex pipe or pieces that may be leaking (you should replace the muffler with a full flow as a part of lunatic modifications outlined later).
Replace any and all exterior lights with LEDs - headlights, marker lights, turn signals, brake lights
Inspect the fifth wheel for wear on the jaws. Rebuild/replace if necessary.
You get ONE comfort item - replace the driver seat if it’s worn or uncomfortable
Check the engine and cab mounts for wear. Engine mounts can create uncomfortable vibrations and cab mounts can make it ride better.
Get an MD Alignment to make sure the truck drives straight and does not wear tires prematurely
Now, let’s “Lunatic” it
OPS Oil Bypass System
Pittsburgh Power Crankshaft Damper and Balancer
Pittsburgh Power Muffler
Low rolling resistance tires - wide base singles for the drives
Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Counteract Balancing Beads in the tires
Centering Sleeves on the drums and wheels to reduce vibration and tire wear
Fleet Air Filter
Scan Gauge KR to monitor your driving habits
As you can see from this list, there is a LOT to do after you purchase your truck to make it efficient and reliable. You should have at LEAST $20,000 available to get the truck ready to go after you have purchased it. If you can find a seasoned, qualified and COMPETENT mechanic to do a lot of this work at the same time, you can save on labor cost as you can do many things at once.